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Most luxury watches carry two numbers. The reference number tells you which model you have, and the serial number identifies that one watch. Both are usually on the case or in the papers, and a buyer uses them to identify and date the watch. Neither sets an offer on its own. If you'd like Ben Steele's view on yours, send him photos for a valuation.
Start with what you can see without taking anything apart: the case back, the sides of the case between the lugs, and the papers that came with the watch. There is no need to open the case.
| Brand | Reference usually found | Serial usually found | Also check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rolex | Case side between the lugs at 12 o'clock | Between the lugs at 6 o'clock on older watches; on the inner ring of the dial (the rehaut) on newer ones | Warranty card and papers |
| Omega | Usually the case back, or the warranty card | Usually the case back, or the warranty card | Box and papers |
| Breitling | Usually the case back, often above the serial | Usually the case back, often below the reference | Box, papers and certificate |
| Cartier | Usually the case back, or the papers | Usually the case back, or the papers | Box and papers |
| Other brands we buy | Case back or papers | Case back, papers or warranty card | Box and papers |
These are the usual places, not a rule for every watch, because makers have moved the numbers over the years.
The numbers between the lugs are easiest to read with the bracelet off. If you aren't confident doing that, leave it: the ring inside the dial, the papers and a photo of the whole watch are enough to start. Around the mid-2000s Rolex began engraving the serial on that inner ring, and on most newer watches it sits there instead. Tilt the watch under a light and look at the ring at 6 o'clock through the crystal.
From around 2010 Rolex serials are random, so the number no longer tells you the year the watch was made. As far as we know Rolex doesn't publish a public database of serial numbers, so any year chart you find is a collector's estimate. Ben can usually work out what you have from the number and a few photos. If you're thinking of selling, here is how we buy a Rolex.
Look on the case back and the warranty card, and photograph both. If you can't find a number, photos of the case back and the papers are still enough for Ben to go on. Each brand has its own page on what we look for: Omega watches we buy, selling a Breitling and selling a Cartier.
For any of the other brands we buy, the warranty card and the case back are the places to look.
One model can come in several sizes, dials and metals, so the reference matters. The reference tells Ben the model, and the serial lets him match the watch to its papers and warranty card. His order is the papers, then the serial number, then the watch itself. Selling without the box and papers is fine, but a matching set makes the first two steps easier.
Yes for dating, no for proving. Online charts and lookup sites give you an estimated year and nothing more.
Several brands, including Breitling, Omega, Cartier, IWC and Panerai, can confirm a serial number, either through the brand directly or its registration portal. Ben treats that as a strong check, though not a perfect one: "That's a 99% foolproof system. It's not 100%, because there are some really good fakes out there that will have a matching serial number for the right watch, where they've been cloned." That's why Ben checks the serial and inspects the watch as well. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch before selling covers what else matters.
The reference tells you the model, and on some watches the serial hints at the age. That's as far as they go. The offer comes from the reference, the condition, the papers and service history, and what the market is doing on the day. Two watches with neighbouring serial numbers can get quite different offers. How buyers calculate their offers sets out how it is worked out, and the accurate way to find out for yours is a free photo valuation from Ben.
Send photos before you send the watch. Daylight is enough.
Message Ben on WhatsApp (07562 359459) or use the form on our contact page. The valuation is free, with no obligation to sell.
Not from the serial number alone, because a good copy can carry a real number. Check the serial against the papers, then have the watch itself inspected. Ben does both.
Replaced parts and very old watches can be missing it, so photograph the ring inside the dial and the papers first. Only take the bracelet off to look between the lugs if you're confident doing it. Send photos and Ben will tell you what he can see.
Only sometimes. The papers are the surest guide to a date, so check the warranty card first, then send Ben the serial and photos if you want his read on it.